Breguet gives its Marine 5517 a comprehensive aesthetic update, bringing more of the manufacturer's traditional decorative language to its sporty time-and-date collection. While the familiar 40mm case and automatic caliber 777A remain, the redesigned Marine receives a hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” dial, applied Breguet numerals, a more symmetrical date display and a selection of new colors across titanium, white gold and rose gold models. The result retains the nautical character that has defined the third-generation Marine since 2017 while establishing a clearer connection with the classical watchmaking codes for which Breguet is best known.
The updated Breguet Marine 5517 retains its familiar case architecture, measuring 40mm in diameter, 11.5mm thick and 47.7mm from lug to lug. It is available in titanium, 18k white gold or 18k rose gold,
with the distinctive Marine construction incorporating a deeply fluted caseband, wave-shaped crown guards and a central lug module connecting the case to either its rubber strap or matching metal bracelet.
A sapphire crystal caseback, secured by seven screws, provides a view of the automatic caliber 777A. Its decoration continues the collection’s nautical theme, with the movement bridges featuring broad engine-turned stripes reminiscent of wooden ship decking and an oscillating weight inspired by the form of a ship’s rudder. The caseback is produced in the same titanium, white gold or rose gold as its corresponding case.
The screw-down crown sits between the Marine collection’s distinctive wave-shaped protective guards. A sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while the rear sapphire crystal receives a single-sided anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance can reach up to 100 meters (328 feet).
The most substantial changes to the Marine 5517 appear on its solid gold dial. Its center is now decorated by hand with Breguet’s “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché pattern, first introduced during the manufacture’s 250th-anniversary celebrations, before being covered with semi-transparent colored lacquer that allows the engine-turned texture to remain visible beneath the surface. A contrasting satin-finished hour chapter ring surrounds the guilloché center.
Each case material receives its own color combination. The titanium model features a dark blue dial with rose gold-colored accents and a subtle smoked effect, while the white gold execution pairs an ice-blue dial with dark blue-treated details. The rose gold version receives a black dial with warm gold accents. Applied 18k gold Breguet numerals replace the luminous Roman numerals of the previous generation, while the date has been relocated to 6 o’clock to create a cleaner and more symmetrical layout. An applied solid gold Breguet signature completes the revised presentation.
The familiar Breguet-style hands remain luminous, preserving nighttime visibility despite the move away from the larger luminous Roman numerals of the preceding Marine 5517.
Together with the peripheral minute track, satin-finished chapter ring, translucent lacquer and deeply engraved guilloché center, the revised treatment creates greater visual depth while bringing the Marine closer to Breguet’s traditional decorative vocabulary.
Breguet Marine 5517
The “Breguet Marine 5517” (References below) is powered by the in-house self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 777A with 26 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vph. It comes equipped with an inverted in-line lever escapement, silicon balance spring and central hours, minutes and seconds, together with the date display now positioned at 6 o’clock. The movement is finished with nautical-inspired decoration and an automatic rotor shaped to recall the lines of a ship’s rudder. Power reserve can last up to 55 hours, when fully wound.
Mounted on these watches are either rubber straps or three-row metal bracelets corresponding to the case material. The newly designed rubber straps incorporate a pattern echoing the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché treatment of the dial and are secured by three-blade folding clasps, while the bracelet executions are produced in titanium, 18k white gold or 18k rose gold to match their respective cases.
(Ref#: 5517BBYA5ZU) - White Gold on Blue Rubber Strap
MSRP: $48,900.00 USD
(Ref#: 5517BBYABZ0) - White Gold on White Gold Bracelet
MSRP: $80,300.00 USD
(Ref#: 5517BR995ZU) - Rose Gold on Black Rubber Strap
MSRP: $48,900.00 USD
(Ref#: 5517BR99RZ0) - Rose Gold on Rose Gold Bracelet
MSRP: $80,300.00 USD
(Ref#: 5517TIY95ZU) - Titanium on Rubber Strap
MSRP: $26,400.00 USD
(Ref#: 5517TIY9TZ0) - Titanium on Titanium Bracelet
MSRP: $30,000.00 USD
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