A trend has emerged in the watch world as more and more brands come out with salmon colored dials. One of the most recent and interesting pieces to do so is the new “Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph”, which was unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2022. Before now this watch could only be had with a black dial or a rose gold version with a silver opaline dial.The round 43mm case is made of 950 platinum with a fluted pattern, while mounted by a flat, wide bezel, all with a high polished finish. It is a quite hefty case with a 12.94 mm height and prominent wrist presence.On the flip-side is a sapphire exhibition caseback that allows a view into the inner workings of the mechanical movement. The current movement housed inside it is a subtle tweaked version of the caliber 1141QP movement, based on the Lemania 2320 movement from the 1940’s.It comes equipped with a screw-in crown between two pushers, on the right side of the case that operate the chronograph functions. While on the left-side we can find a very small, discreet push button used to set the perpetual calendar. All topped by a sapphire crystal that also assists with water-resistance reaching up to 30 meters (98 feet). Time is exhibited on a salmon colored opaline dial with 18k white gold applied hour index markers. Followed by a black printed railroad style minutes/seconds ring circling the dial, while a second ring closer to the bezel features a tachymeter scale. There are two aperture windows located in the center of the dial for the day of the week and the current month. Just over these windows is the Vacheron Constantin logo and the Maltese cross-shaped logo, aligned with the 12 o’clock position. Plus a small round aperture to indicate the leap year.It also includes three sloped sub-dials with an outer off-white ring: a 30-minute counter at the 3 o’clock, a perpetual calendar with a moonphase inside it at 6 o’clock and a sub-seconds at the 9 o’clock position.Take a closer and you’ll see the Moonphase has a melancholy moon and a happy moon, mimicking the traditional style seen on vintage pocket watches, some of which can be found in Vacheron Constantin's own back catalog.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Salmon Dial
The “Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph” (Ref#:5000T/000P-B975) is powered by the in-house hand-wound mechanical movement, caliber 1142 QP, with 21 jewels, 324 parts and 21,600 vph. Power reserve can last up to 48 hours, when fully wound.Mounted to the watch is a hand-stitched dark blue alligator Mississippiensis strap, secured to the wrist by a platinum 950 deployment buckle. For more up to date information visit the official Vacheron Constantin website here.