After reintroducing their vintage FiftySix collection, back at SIHH 2018. Vacheron Constantin returns to the online revamped/rebranded version of that trade fair, now known as “Watches & Wonders” with the updated sepia-brown “FiftySix Self-Winding & Complete Calendar” models, for 2020.
Size wise they have kept the same 40mm case as seen before, for both of these offerings. In terms of material the artisans have chosen to craft the case out of 18k 5N pink gold with a transparent sapphire exhibition case back, which allows to view the inner workings of the mechanical movement. Among the timely gears showcased on the flip-side is also a satin-brushed 22k gold open-worked rotor, bearing the Maltese Cross applique with a frosted-snailed finish.
A historical fact worth rehashing is how the original case for the FiftySix model, released back in 1956, was shaped according to the Maltese cross.
A quite significant detail since that was also the logo chosen by Vacheron Constantin to represent their brand.
All topped by a raised box-type crystal that rises above the bezel, made from the more scratch-resistant sapphire instead of Plexiglass or mineral glass, as the vintage models of the 1950’s were. Water-resistance on this watch can reach up to 30 meters (98 feet).
Both models exhibit time on a sepia-brown sector-dial, which is the main novelty of these releases, since they were already available in blue and anthracite colored options. Their chapter ring is composed of an alternating mixture of Arabic numerals and baton-type hour index markers.
The simplest self-winding option is further embellished by a rail-road motif minute index ring circling near the bezel, plus another minute-ring toward the inner center of the dial. There is also a date aperture at the 3 o’clock position. Equipped with 18k pink gold sword-style hands that are fitted with a luminescent coating, just like the minute index markers for an enhanced legibility.
Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding
The “Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding” (Ref#: 4600E/000R-B576) is powered by an in-house self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 1326 with 25 jewels, 142 parts, w and 28,800 Vph. It was introduced in 2018 and is based on the Cartier 1904 architecture. Power reserve on this watch can last up to 48 hours, when fully wound.
MSRP: $18,700.00 USD
While the more complicated “complete calendar” option features the same aforementioned sector-dial, as well as a 31-day calendar ring circling near the bezel, a minute-ring toward the inner center of the dial, and a Moonphase aligned with the 6 o’clock position that only requires adjustment once every 122 years.
There are two window apertures for the day and month, on the upper-half portion of the dial, just underneath the VC logo. Equipped with an 18k pink gold arrow tipped hand for the calendar function and slightly differentiated central sword-style hands.
But, only the central hands and hour index markers have been fitted with a luminescent coating, for an enhanced legibility.
Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar
The “Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar” (Ref#: 4000E/000R-B065) is powered by an in-house self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 2460 QCL/1 with 27 jewels, 308 parts, w and 28,800 Vph. This is a variation on the 2460 QC1 introduced in 2018 for the initial FiftySix collection. Power reserve on this watch can last up to 40 hours, when fully wound.
Mounted to both watches is a dark brown calf skin strap, secured to the wrist by an 18k pink gold ardillon buckle. For more up to date information visit the official Vacheron Constantin website here.
MSRP: $33,700.00 USD