Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

Few watches carry as much historical weight within a brand as the Calatrava does for Patek Philippe. In 2025, the legendary lineage of the Ref. 96 continues with the launch of the new Calatrava 6196P-001, a watch that revives the foundational elegance of the original while quietly refining it for a modern era. Housed in platinum with a rose-gilt opaline dial and powered by the hand-wound calibre 30-255 PS, this latest reference distills the essence of Patek’s design philosophy into a piece that feels both reverent and current. It’s not a reinvention, it’s a respectful evolution.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Patek Philippe (@patekphilippe)

This release returns to the purest expression of the Calatrava lineage with a polished 950 platinum case measuring 38mm in diameter and 9.33mm in thickness. This 3-part construction revisits the classic form introduced in 1932 with Reference 96, featuring elongated lugs integrated into the middle case, a flat coin-edge bezel, and brushed flanks to complement the mirror-polished surfaces. The dimensions offer a refined update, adding just enough wrist presence while remaining faithful to the discreet elegance expected of a Calatrava.On the reverse, a box-shaped sapphire crystal is fitted into a snap-on caseback, marking the first time a display back has been featured in the traditional 96 series lineage. The see-through caseback reveals the calibre 30-255 PS in full view, a meaningful upgrade from the solid-back 5196 generation. Subtle details, such as the brilliant-cut diamond discreetly set between the lugs at 6 o’clock (a signature feature of Patek’s platinum models), reinforce the brand’s quiet codes of luxury.
It comes equipped with a slim fluted crown for manual winding and precise time-setting. The angular lugs, squared bezel edges, and sharp transitions preserve the essential Calatrava silhouette, while slight curvature on the outer lug flanks lends a more modern softness. Water-resistance can reach up to 30 meters (100 feet).
Time is exhibited on a rose-gilt opaline dial, an elegant matte salmon-toned surface with a finely grained texture that softly catches light. Unlike traditional sunburst finishes, the opaline treatment gives the dial a warm, tailored character, shifting subtly between earthy and refined tones. It’s a natural match for the cool hue of the platinum case and sets a distinctly modern tone while remaining grounded in classical restraint. The layout is symmetrical and free of complications, highlighting the timeless simplicity that defines the Calatrava line.
At 6 o’clock, a small seconds sub-dial is positioned perfectly, thanks to the architecture of the new larger movement. Its placement brings a balanced geometry to the dial that was missing in earlier generations, such as the 5196, where the sub-dial sat higher due to the smaller caliber. The minimal dial design, free from date windows, logos beyond the essentials, or unnecessary ornamentation, places all emphasis on proportion, negative space, and clarity.

All hour markers are faceted obus-style indexes in anthracite-toned white gold, matched by sharp dauphine hands in the same darkened finish. While the use of anthracite may appear bold at first, the polished surfaces soften the tone depending on the angle, offering both contrast and refinement. The dial’s discreet complexity and harmonious detailing make it a quiet showcase of modern craftsmanship informed by historic design.

The “Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P” (Ref#: 6196P-001) is powered by the in-house hand-wound mechanical movement, caliber 30-255 PS with 27 jewels,164 components, and 28,800 vph. It features a dual-barrel architecture for steady torque delivery, a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time-setting, and Patek Philippe’s proprietary Gyromax balance with Spiromax hairspring. Measuring 31mm in diameter and just 2.55mm in height, the movement is finely finished with Geneva stripes, polished bevels, perlage, and bears the Patek Philippe Seal. Power reserve can last up to 65 hours, when fully wound.
Mounted on the watch is a shiny chocolate brown alligator leather strap with large square scales, secured by a platinum prong buckle. The strap offers a traditional high-gloss finish that pairs formally with the platinum case, though some may find its aesthetic slightly conservative. Thanks to the use of quick-release spring bars, swapping the strap for a more textured or contemporary option is effortless, allowing the 38mm case to adapt easily between classic elegance and a more modern, understated style on the wrist.
For more up to date information visit the official Patek Philippe website here.