IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44
IWC Schaffhausen has revamped its iconic Portugieser collection, unveiling four new models at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. The lineup includes two white gold versions with blue and sand-colored dials, and two in Armor Gold with black and silver dials. Central to these models is the perpetual calendar, a key complication refined from Kurt Klaus's pioneering 1980s module.This module emphasizes minimalism and high functionality, representing IWC's engineering ethos. Enhancements since its first introduction in 2003 include a more accurate moon phase display, now precise up to 577.5 years, and a patented Double Moon feature that tracks lunar phases in both hemispheres.The updated 44.4mm case, slightly larger by 0.2mm, is crafted in variants of white gold or Armor Gold, each polished to a high sheen. Despite its slimmed middle band and more refined profile, it retains a height of 14.9mm. This series marks the smallest diameter in IWC's lineup to include a perpetual calendar.On the reverse, a glass-box-type sapphire crystal showcases the intricate mechanics within, featuring a less bulky construction that reduces the overall weight of the watch. The oscillating weight is visible through this exhibition caseback, highlighting IWC’s attention to detail.The setting crown, designed with fine knurling and embossed with the IWC logo, complements the watch's elegant yet robust aesthetic. Short, well-defined lugs support the structure, all beneath a slightly domed sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Improved water resistance now allows for depths up to 50 meters (164 feet).The dial comes in Horizon blue, Dune, Obsidian black, or silver-plated options, depending on the case material, each featuring a high-gloss finish achieved through 15 layers of transparent lacquer. Gold or rhodium-plated hands and indices adorn these dials, enhancing their luxurious appearance.The dial isn’t just about good looks; it’s a hub of precision engineering. The perpetual calendar's features spread gracefully across three sub-dials: the combination of the day and running seconds at 9 o’clock, date alongside power reserve at 3 o'clock, and the month with the adjacent four-digit year indicator near 6 o’clock. Crowning the dial's layout is the Double Moon display at 12 o'clock, a poetic representation of the moon phases visible from both hemispheres.Despite the complexity hidden beneath, the layout of the dial remains remarkably accessible. Each function is easily adjustable via the crown, thanks to Kurt Klaus’s ingenious calendar module.The central leaf-shaped hands are designed to match the case alloy, ensuring aesthetic coherence, supported by elegantly blued sub-hands and a central second hand, all coming together to craft a watch that's as functional as it is visually captivating.
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44
The “IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44” (References below) is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 52616 with 54 jewels, 385 components, and 28,800 vph. Power reserve can last up to 168 hours (7 Days), when fully wound
Mounted on the watches is either a black, or brown alligator scaled straps (except for the light blue version in calfskin), all with tone-on-tone stitchings, then secured to the wrist by a buckle matching each model's case alloy.For more up to date information visit the official IWC Schaffhausen website here.
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