Securing an iconic status in the competitive world of watchmaking is no small feat, yet Bulgari has managed to achieve this milestone in just a decade. The Octo Finissimo stands as a testament to this success, blending bold contemporary Italian design with sophisticated Swiss mechanics. Bvlgari refers to its approach as L’Estetica della Meccanica, which aims at achieving the best mix of mechanics and stylish craftsmanship. A design reminiscent of architectural motifs of Ancient Rome, while also appealing to modern users. This “Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar” was released in late summer during the “Geneva Watch Days 2023”, along with a simpler time-only version we recently reviewed. In essence what makes these releases truly distinctive is the original combination of materials: Carbon and Gold, reflecting Bulgari's ongoing commitment to innovation and pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.The iconic octagonal 40mm case is made of the brand's proprietary “CarbonGold” which was first introduced back in 1993 and consists of a combination of high-tech carbon and gold elements. This mainly anthracite alloy with unique specks of color is very lightweight, while preserving a significant robustness. But despite all the similarities this release measures in at a thickness of 7.60mm, instead of the record-breaking thickness of only 5.80mm found on the previous platinum and titanium versions. On the flip-side we encounter a sapphire exhibition case back, which allows us to view the inner workings of this complicated mechanical movement. Despite its small footprint this new record breaking Bvlgari movement has packed: hours, minutes, a retrograde date, day, month, and retrograde leap year functions; all in a total thickness of just 2.75mm. It also comes equipped with a setting-crown, plus very discreet recessed buttons on the side of the case used to adjust the calendar functions: date (at 2 o’clock), the month (at 4 o’clock) and day of the week (at 8 o’clock). This version may be be thicker in size, but it has also enhanced its water-resistance from 30 meters to reaching up to 100 meters (328 feet).Time is exhibited on a “CarbonGold” dial with gold-plated hour index markers and matches the case alloy allows for a consistent aesthetics, further enriched by the nuanced colorations each individual piece can retain due to this proprietary alloys uniqueness. It features two retrograde indications for the date and the leap years. On the upper half of the dial we encounter the date printed in a golden semi-circle that includes the whole range of 31 numerals. Once the hand reaches the last day of the month, it automatically jumps counter-clockwise and returns to its initial day one position.On the lower half Bvlgari has spread out three distinct complications. The day of the week sub-dial is on the left, while the months are on the right side. A small leap year indicator has been placed at the 6 o’clock position. As for telling current time we can follow the gold skeletonized central hands, which point out the baton style hour index markers. These markings start off with a quite prominent size on the upper half of the dial, but decrease almost completely out of view as we enter the more “crowded” lower half of the dial.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar
The “Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar” (Ref#: 103778) is powered by the in-house self-winding mechanical movement, calibre BVL 305 with 35 jewels, 408 components, and 21,600 vph. It comes equipped with an automatic integrated perpetual calendar with a micro-rotor. Power reserve can last up to 60 hours, when fully wound.Mounted to the watch is a carbon gold bracelet, secured by a three-blade folding buckle. For more up to date information visit the official Bvlgari website here.
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