Breguet Classique Souscription

To mark the opening chapter of its 250th anniversary celebrations, Breguet introduces the Classique Souscription 2025BH, a refined, historically inspired timepiece that reimagines the brand’s legendary one-handed subscription watches for the modern wrist. Crafted in a newly developed gold alloy and paired with a grand feu enamel dial, this model draws from centuries of heritage while embracing subtle modernity in both design and movement. With artisanal finishes like hand-engraving and engine-turned guilloché, the Souscription blends simplicity, purity, and mechanical poetry into a singular expression of Breguet’s enduring legacy.
This piece is housed in a newly designed 40mm case made from a proprietary 18k “Breguet” gold alloy, composed of gold, silver, copper, and palladium. With a height of 10.8mm, the proportions remain slim and elegant, echoing classical sensibilities while embracing modern wrist presence. Unlike the fluted case bands and soldered lugs of traditional Breguet cases, this one-piece stamped design introduces a softer, mid-century silhouette, simpler in construction, yet harmonious with the minimalist concept of the watch.On the reverse, a sapphire crystal reveals the manually wound VS00 movement, framed by a caseback rim adorned with hand-executed guilloché. The pattern, known as “Quai de l’Horloge,” is a wavy motif named after the street where A.-L. Breguet’s original workshop was located in Paris. The guilloché is executed on a traditional rose engine, reinforcing the artisanal underpinnings of the piece despite its contemporary production context.
It comes equipped with a gently domed sapphire crystal up front, while the absence of a crown guard and the minimal lug profile emphasize its historical inspiration. The case offers 30 meters (100 feet) of water resistance, sufficient for daily wear but clearly designed with refinement rather than sport in mind.
Time is indicated on a domed grand feu enamel dial, faithfully echoing the aesthetics of Breguet’s original souscription pocket watches from the late 18th century. The layout is deliberately restrained, with no hour markers or numerals, allowing the single heat-blued steel hand to glide freely across the pure white surface. Its curved profile is manually shaped to follow the dial’s contour, preserving readability and elegance across the domed architecture.The design is deeply rooted in Breguet’s history, with proportions and typography reminiscent of the subscription watches sold by Abraham-Louis Breguet on a prepayment model. Adding a layer of subtle craftsmanship, the dial features a discrete “secret” signature, pantograph-engraved in script form, visible only under angled light. This understated detail honors one of Breguet’s most iconic anti-counterfeiting innovations and subtly signals authenticity to the initiated.Though deceptively simple at first glance, the dial exemplifies Breguet’s dedication to artisanal techniques and heritage fidelity. The lack of visual clutter, combined with the enamel’s soft sheen and the hand-finished steel pointer, results in a display that is both serene and rich with historical texture, a minimalist expression of horological purity that elevates the one-handed time display to something almost poetic.

The “Breguet Classique Souscription” (Ref#: 2025BH/28/9W6) is powered by the in-house manually wound mechanical movement, calibre VS00 with 21 jewels, 144 components, and 21,600 vph (3 Hz). Inspired by the architecture of the La Tradition calibre 505/507 and the original souscription pocket watches, it features a central barrel layout and gilt bridges plated in Breguet gold with a frosted sandblasted finish. Power reserve can last up to 96 hours, when fully wound.Mounted on the watch is a classic alligator leather strap in deep brown, secured by a matching pin buckle crafted from the same proprietary “Breguet” gold alloy as the case. The strap’s traditional construction and matte finish complement the historical inspiration of the watch. Overall the Souscription wears with understated elegance, faithful to its roots, yet fully adapted to contemporary comfort.
For more up to date information visit the official Breguet website here.