Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
The competition for ultra-thin watches has reached unprecedented levels, with manufacturers pushing the boundaries of thinness and cramming complications into minimal space. Bulgari's Octo Finissimo series has been at the forefront of this pursuit, earning widespread acclaim. In 2022, Bulgari achieved a significant milestone with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, recognized as the world's thinnest mechanical watch at just 1.8mm thick. However, their reign was short-lived when Richard Mille introduced the RM UP-01 a few months later, boasting a thickness of 1.75mm. Now, Bulgari is poised to reclaim its title with the introduction of the new 1.70mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, reaffirming their commitment to innovation and excellence in watchmaking.The Octo Finissimo hardly requires an introduction, having ascended to the status of a true horological icon. It epitomizes style and Italian elegance, making a bold statement wherever it goes. Beyond its captivating aesthetics, the Octo Finissimo stands as a testament to technical prowess, as achieving such extreme thinness is no small feat, requiring unparalleled precision and skill. While Bulgari briefly held the record for the world's thinnest mechanical watch with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, Richard Mille's remarkable RM UP-01 surpassed it. Now, Bulgari aims to reclaim its position with the 1.70mm Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, signaling a renewed commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking excellence.The 40mm octagonal case with a height of only 1.70mm is made of sandblasted titanium with a tungsten carbide plate with anthracite DLC treatment. The Ultra COSC, like its predecessor, relies on a collaboration with Concepto to achieve its technical feats. This involved meticulous component trimming and tight tolerance management. The development process led to the creation of eight patents, with each movement taking about a week to assemble due to the precision required.On the flipside similarly to the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, the caseback of the Finissimo Ultra doubles as the movement's base plate. This innovative approach eliminates multiple layers in the watch's architecture, maximizing the use of space and organizing all functions on a single horizontal plane. The regulator-style display with separate time indications prevents overlapping hands, enhancing legibility and aesthetics.In place of a traditional crown, two horizontal knobs are positioned on either side of the case—one for winding and the other for time adjustment. Powering the rotation of the oversized barrel are three rollers. The balance, equipped with a flat spring and lacking an index, incorporates adjustment weights. It is securely held between flexible bridges designed to deform upon impact. Water-resistance can reach up to 10 meters (32 feet).The skeletonized dial has maintained its monochrome gray finish, with enhanced contrast on the hours and minutes dials. A notable change is the ratchet, which now features a geometric pattern instead of the previous QR code engraving. The QR code has been replaced by a miniaturized Datamatrix on the back of the watch, offering access to comprehensive data about the timepiece and inviting wearers to embark on a personal exploration of the Bulgari universe.The inclusion of the QR code in the original design may have been considered a misstep, but it's understandable given the trend of NFTs and digital assets during the tumultuous year of 2022. However, the new barrel design represents a significant improvement, reflecting Bulgari's commitment to refinement and innovation.Its hour and minute regulator display counters crafted from sandblasted titanium with PVD treatment further enhance visual appeal. Plus the watch incorporates black PVD hands, a second wheel with a black index indicator, and winding and time-setting wheels made of sandblasted stainless steel. Notably, the sandblasted stainless steel ratchet showcases an engraved geometric design, adding a distinctive touch to the overall aesthetic.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
The “Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC” (Ref#: 104081) is powered by the hand-wound mechanical movement, caliber 180 with 21 jewels and 28,800 vph. This was developed by a joint venture between Bulgari and Concepto. Power reserve can last up to 50 hours, when fully wound.Mounted on the watch is an ultra-thin 1.50mm sandblasted titanium bracelet, secured to the wrist by an integrated folding clasp.Bulgari has also introduced a unique box featuring a digital interface designed to facilitate the winding and time-setting process of your watch. All you need to do is place the watch inside the case, input the desired time, and with the press of a button, initiate the adjustment cycle, for the watch to be wound and accurately set to the desired time. This is a limited edition of only 20 manufactured pieces. For more up to date information visit the official Bulgari website here.
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